Tuesday, 28 December 2010

A nation... Lost in translation

It is Friday morning here in Tehran, a public day off, like a Sunday in most of the Western world. Here weekends here begin on Thursday and Friday is the day of rest. It has been a fascinating experience meeting the real people of this land, where the news does not reach. All we hear from outside the country is of a city in turmoil with a concentration on nuclear power. How many have actually tried successfully to reach its people and understand what has been going on here since the revolution which took place in 1979. 

On a winter's day, with an autumn sun shining through the fog of a modern age-polluted city, we visited the Sa'ad Abad Palace in the North of Tehran. Looking through the gates of this complex, the majestic scenery of the mountains ahead made me stop and take a deep second glance. Amazing if there is a soul in nature, I can surely feel it here. Or is it the mix of the soul of the people's past added to the history it has gone through that makes it all so much more special?

Hala and I, joined by our French young friend, Alain who happened to be our host on this visit, walked around the grounds of the 18 mansions and houses built in 110 hectares of gardens The Qajar kings first used this as their summer residence. Boy, did these Qajars know how to live well!  The mansions were expanded to the number they are now at the time of Reza Shah. It is well-kept and somewhat resembled a Swiss mini-village, where aged cypresses and aspens had grown with all the years gone. Ten of the mansions are now open for the public to visit as museums. I took some great photos of the grounds and buildings to be downloaded at a later date due to the censoring at present.







For the young people abroad, Iran is one of the oldest civilisations on earth; a deep and sophisticated culture. Despite the censoring, Iranian cinema has proved a success in the Western world, winning awards in many film festivals. Almost 32 years have passed since the revolution and the country has gone through a drastic change ever since. From openly wearing Western clothes, even mini skirts in the early seventies to being forced into the coverage of 'hijab'; the scarf and coat. From having the latest style clubs and cabarets to restricting gatherings at home. With all the boundaries, a new wave in art has been born, be it cinema, music or arts.

As to the confusion of Iranians calling themselves Persians, the late Shah's father Reza Shah changed the name of the country Persia into Iran in 1935. In the process of modernising his country, he encouraged women to let down their 'chador' at home and work alongside their male countrymen. 1979 when Khomeini came to power, women were forced to cover themselves. I can only imagine all this 'take it off' and 'put it on' made the ladies feel somewhat vulnerable yet it had the opposite effect. Through time, they got stronger, more assertive and further educated.

 As a result, so many ladies have toughened up to a degree of standing up against what they feel is unjust. they have had to prove themselves as the equal sex. The make-up, style of clothing and the hairdos even apparent through the hijab coverage, represent more a sign of outrage as a consequence. Yet meeting the stunning younger ladies here, with the flirtatious look through those Aryan eyes, I cannot help but wonder how they would have behaved in an open society.
"I want to talk about sex," exclaimed a young choreographer at a party, "What's wrong with that?" She continued. "It's a natural act."
"Hear Hear!" I replied with a grin. 

What is interesting is that even in an open, democratic world, the subject of sex is not as freely portrayed as most would like to believe! And yet, tell me, how did each one of us get conceived?
The birds and the bees, would you say! 






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