Saturday, 1 March 2014

Random meetings in Vietnam

Within each story lies a thousand words of love, hatred, wisdom, joy, sadness, and all the feelings we choose to create in our minds at each moment.

Sitting here on the balcony of my bedroom, with a bed large enough to comfortably accommodate not two but three, looking out onto a pool with coconut-bearing palm trees at each corner. I wish I had kept my skin away from the burning sun on the previous day. I'm glad there are the pages of my blog to turn.

Travelling so far east is not merely to discover the wonders of a country that occupied hours of news in the sixties and seventies during the American invasion but also to spend time on my own in finding self and others. So far, all I have gathered is that I am very comfortable in my own skin, even though somewhat burned at present.

Upon landing in Vietnam's capital, Hanoi, my first introduction to the people here was with the lovely Hanh, who would be my guide and companion for the next day. The driver of the four-wheel drive, Tuan, spoke no English. The twelve-hour forty-minute plane ride to Singapore, followed by another three hours to Hanoi, meant I kept dosing off in the back seat of the jeep while Hanh tried to go through our next day's itinerary. She then suggested I get some sleep and contacted her in a more alert mode.

As she left me at Anise Hotel in what seemed a central square position in the city and checked into the room, I knew sleeping in the afternoon would be of no help to my unsettling jetlag, so I decided to get a map from the concierge, camera in hand and do a long walk around Hanoi. The hustle and bustle of the merchants occupying the streets was fascinating; I wandered until I unexpectedly found myself at Ho Chi Minh's mausoleum. It occupied a vast open space in what I assumed was the town centre. With no idea of time, I decided to catch a taxi to the recommended Seasons of Hanoi restaurant at an early 17:35 hour, only to be turned down by the amused waiter and told to return at six. Walking only a little further, I saw a large lake with relatively peaceful surroundings compared to what I had just experienced. It was hard keeping my eyes open, but I managed it until I was only five to six and was allowed into the empty restaurant, trying to keep my eyes open and not fall headfirst into my noodle soup.

After an eleven-hour sleep in a hotel room I would have customarily refused to stay in, Hanh was waiting in the lobby to take me on the privately guided tour.
I will leave details of the information gathered on learning about Ho Chi Minh's great leadership for when I go back home. As I have not yet had access to my photos, what is to be revealed for now are the people who have crossed my path so far.

Hanh was the first person representing Vietnam to me. Is it not true what an important role we each play in being ambassadors to the countries we call home? My guide was well-informed, kind, and caring, which was an excellent introduction for a start. When we met on that day for a tour of the capital, Hanoi, we walked around Ho Chi Minh's mausoleum, which was closed on Fridays to enter, followed onto the relatively humble home he chose to live in the grounds of the palace originally built for his residence. The simplicity of his lifestyle was admirable. From there, another car ride to the Temple of Literature and a stroll in the vast area which occupied an excellent meterage of the town; it was fascinating to know what great minds had set foot in the grounds we now walked in.

Hanh did not rush me once while I took the hundreds of photos I usually do. After a fabulous and healthy fish lunch, she offered to stay with me the rest of the afternoon, having the most delicious coffee Vietnam is known for; thick and chocolaty made with condensed milk, yummy. I rode on the back of her scooter as we toured the rest of the afternoon while I purchased a couple of paintings, two reading glasses, plus a visit to an antique shop. Ayayayaya.  Hanh then left me at a restaurant, where she recommended dinner, and it was a great start to my holiday.

Saturday, 22 February, the same driver, Tuan, picked me up at the hotel for a four-hour drive to Halong Bay, setting sail on the Indochine Sails junk for two nights of unforgettable scenery. As he spoke literally no English, I only had myself to entertain, so with his permission, I put the car music playing from A Love Story to sounds of the seventies and began singing. My mother would have been horrified, but Tuan's expression looked untouched. Great. He then dropped me off at the port, and we bid farewell. I joined a group of about thirty on board a small boat carrier, which took us to the junkyard. It was not difficult to notice the two single men amongst a group of couples stuck together as peas in a pod.

The older gentleman, closer to my age, began his approach as we got on board and, after settling in our relatively luxury cabins, asked whether I would care to join him at the table set for two. It weirdly felt like Valentine's night with red roses and an elegant surround. Eeek! As I had clearly stated on my Facebook page: 'Fuck Valentine's Day, I love you every day'. I'm not a fan, but in any case, Alistair had a wedding band on, so no hanky panky there, just good company. In fact, he was great fun, mentioning his wife quite a few times during the evening, and I genuinely appreciate his faithfulness. Taking time apart when you are in a solid relationship is only healthy. The bottle of Argentinian Malbec went down well with the Vietnamese meal, and we could not stop giggling at the poor man announcing the visit to the 'Surprise Cave' set for the following day, only ten times. I was among the five or six who stayed on for two nights, so that visit would be made later. We chatted and laughed some more after dinner, and I even joined Alistair on deck for three Marlboro light cigarettes after giving them years ago. He said:
"I'm often told to be a bad influence!"
I added: "That's usually my line!"
We each retired to our rooms, and I only got a glimpse of Alistair as he returned from the cave tour. He said aloud while his boat was leaving ashore:
"Bye! And by the way, the Surprise Cave was no surprise!"

The younger single man was already there when I got up to the breakfast area. We shared a table and began conversing immediately. Dale was his name, and he was brought to Vietnam through work. He decided to spend the weekend exploring Halong Bay waters before starting in Hanoi. He kept me great company for the next twenty-four hours as we visited the Surprise Cave, one of the most extraordinary caves I had ever been to! Gigantic, too, with three thousand visitors inside, as one tour guide noted at the time. We also did some kayaking with a newlywed Colombian couple, going around other caves nearby. No Sun, but great fun. Despite a deliberate dislike for Harry Potter by the husband and his wife's fascination with the character, she says, looking at her man: "Yes, but he likes Harry Potter now because this is love."
Fair do. We all shared a dislike of the message we had received. As we expressed, the masseuse jumped on the bed like a kung fu fighter, and goodness, did she mean business! I had to beg her to be gentle.
When we were taken to the pearl farm, Dale was buying his mum a pair of earrings when I heard a lot of hoohaa and laughter. Once back in the junk, our guide mentioned all the interest from the sales girls when they found out Dale was single, but he seemed wiser than to fall for that.

Another goodbye the next day as Tuan awaited to pick me up at the harbour, and this time, a one-and-a-half-hour drive to Haiphong airport was scheduled. I had already asked him to bring a new CD for the journey as I had tired myself of singing the same songs three times on the way from Hanoi, and he gladly listened. Only this time, I had yet to learn the songs! Perhaps that was deliberate. Haha. As we were early for the flight, the friendly driver took me for a short visit to the Opera house and flower market in Haiphong city and a spot for a mediocre lunch at one of the few restaurants we managed to locate; a silent lunch as of Tuan's limited language capability.

So far, I have found the Vietnamese people warm, kind, and friendly. They all seem surprised when I keep pointing out the table for one. Room for one. Breakfast for one, and it is clear from the warm embraces the ladies here give me that there is nothing sad about me, my smile, or my wonderful life. Also true, I have yet to come across one woman travelling alone here, nor any man apart from Halong Bay. Oh well, neither here nor there. I am absolutely cherishing the experience and realise self-searching does not have to occur anywhere in particular. Every day carries learning in many ways; just being open to the miracles surrounding us and the tiny details that make life awesome is all we need to observe. The rest is merely experience.

A change of hotel from Boutique to Chic tonight, where I had spent my first night in Hoi An, ordered three flamenco tailor-made dresses; one each day here, visited different restaurants on a nightly basis, and took a guided tour of the ruins of My Son today sums up my time so far here. Looking forward to more...

With Love from Vietnam.



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