Angkor Wat & Tonle Sap - Cambodia

'Be happy not only because everything is good but because you can see the good in everything.'
Life is an illusion of what we make it out to be. During a few hours of intense conversation with Aubella, we discussed how to change and reverse the discontented conditions we come across daily into a better day and tomorrow. I was so glad to hear our chat had changed her outlook more positively. We all seek happiness, finding ways to get there in a manner you will never want to return to any other state of being, which is the goal of authentic living.

Back to Cambodia and Siem Reap...
Every time I hear of the city of Siem Reap, the temples of Angkor Wat are associated with it, and boy, did I find out why!  
The French Indochina was formed out of Vietnam, Cambodia and Laos in 1950, with puppet rulers governing each state until the Geneva Conference of 1954, when absolute independence was felt. This sounds now, but I was just reading my notes from my guide, Nak, on the importance of the Strait of Malacca as the busiest sea route in the world. He mentioned that a third of the world's transportation is through this route; hence, control of it means control of the South China Sea. As I googled it now, that is where the missing aeroplane from Kuala Lumpur, which incidentally happened the same Friday 7 March evening I was flying back from Singapore to London, was last traced changing course and travelling West over the Strait of Malacca. Who really knows?!?

The sunsets and sunrises by the site of Angkor Wat were genuinely magnificent, and crowds gathered to take photos of each slight movement of the sun by the second. Even getting to the site by 6:00am was not early enough not to face walls of people walking the bridge as pilgrims who had waited long to be there. Now, here we all were, watching the scene silently and in awe.

Sunset opposite Angkor Wat

King Suryavarman II was responsible for constructing Angkor Wat early in the 12th century until he passed away, with others following.

Crowds awaiting the sunrise

Sunrise at Angkor Wat

I lost Nak as he left me amongst other visitors, awaiting the sun to rise as though it were waking in its glory behind the Angkor War.  


After the photo shoots, I realised my guide was nowhere in sight, and in all honesty, I found it bliss to be going around such grandeur of holy grounds, where I felt like a child in a playground—content.

Although the building was only three floors from the Temple and 65 metres high, there were many steps to climb.
Walking from room to room with high ceilings, I came across colourfully decorated Buddhas with fabrics and ornaments. Gorgeous!
Just as I was wandering around aimlessly, a school of Cambodian children came up the many steps to where I stood on top of the Temple. I followed the youngsters and their older lady companions and stood close enough to zoom the lens of my camera towards them while they were not watching, just not to be offensive. The children seemed so happy exploring the different corners of Angkor Wat.
I left them thinking, now I have been lost for a while, better get back, a group of men and women dressed in the (what I assume was) National Cambodian clothes and large, old-fashioned cameras with pods in hand, going to probably a photo shoot, so I followed them. Like a child in Disneyland, I was over the moon with the thought of being so blessed in every way.

Peace & a smile is all we need ... indeed.

Getting ready for a photoshoot

The walk back from the Temple

Finally, with all the hundreds of photos safely at hand, I walked back to the bridge just outside the Temple and pretended to be quite upset that my guide had not done his job well by losing me right at the start of the tour. Seeing him standing outside the gates with a grin, I looked ahead and simply walked off as he kept calling my name. No sign of mercy there; he ran behind me; I stopped and simply said (angrily, I may add):
"You lost me right at the start of the tour this morning. I'm very upset, so I will keep quiet, or I may say things to regret later. So take me to the car, please, in silence!"
We rode back to Shinta Mani Resort without a word; I got off and left the car as Nak said:
"See you at two this afternoon, Haldita."
As a rule of life, I do my best not to keep anger within. It is poison, and never mind being on holiday, I choose not to hold grudges. They serve no purpose, but they do not push my buttons.
Mmmm ...  I like the new me! Haha.

After another lavish breakfast and a couple of hours in the sun by the pool, it was time to shower and be ready for yet another marvel of this city to be discovered. My arrival outside the hotel entrance was somewhat past two in the afternoon, however, Nak and our driver Mr T were outside waiting. As we drove off, I voiced my disappointment. I questioned whether an apology was in order, and Nak obligingly offered to do so and informed me of our boat ride that afternoon on Tonle Sap (the largest lake in Cambodia and one of the largest in the world) to visit the floating villages. The fishermen's houses along the water were built high from the ground due to the numerous floods between July and October.

Children playing in the lake water

Although the lake is located only 55 km outside of Siem Reap, the long drive there and back left me somewhat restless, and I could not wait to get back to shower and meet the two lovely sisters I had met getting on the plane to Cambodia for dinner at AHA restaurant. Pub Street is where the evening action is meant to take place, and indeed, it was a super busy pedestrianised street filled with vendors and tourists. 

Another restaurant I was recommended and visited was Sugar Palm. The forty-minute wait for the Amok fish to be prepared was too long to endure, so I opted for the fish curry, which was the most delicious one I have tasted to date. That was my last dinner alone, thank goodness, as I was beginning to get bored of my own company for so long.  
Other leisurely enjoyments in Siem Reap were the stone massages and the wrap at my hotel's wonderfully peaceful spa. A spot of retail therapy at the shops next to Shinta Mani, one in particular owned by a trendy French couple, where the lady convinced me effortlessly to purchase many of their designed and manufactured wraps, earrings, and God knows what else at just one boutique.

Everyone who has been to Cambodia recalls memories inevitably involving the ever-smiling and amiable Khmer people. My flight from Siem Reap to Singapore and London went flawlessly. I got home with incredible scenes memorised of special moments spent on my two-and-a-half-week voyage of discovering Vietnam and Cambodia.

Next will be my last visit to Marbella and the Seville Feria ...  Hasta luego amigos! 

Siem Reap... Buddha-Land

'No man can know happiness without peace'.
Peace only comes when we deal with issues that take up space in our minds. We cannot afford to waste them, as time is short, and it is wise to let go of matters that will only be forgotten in time anyway. But do not leave behind those who have left on their spiritual journey; they will be beside you whenever you think of them and give you their support whenever you ask.
'To my Darling Friend Guilda, my thoughts are with you on your hours of grief'.

March 2014 - My visit to Siem Reap began with a similar order of a guide and driver waiting at the airport to drop me at the hotel Shinta Mani Resort in a central area of town. As I arrived at nightfall, the entrance was grand, with white walls, high ceilings, and dimmed lighting to give it an ultra-modern look, also lit by an alley of candles set on the floor by the columns. Quite impressive! The young man on duty who showed me to my room was pleasant and informative, giving the experience a most welcoming star. As usual, I dropped my case in the spacious room with a balcony overlooking the pool and asked the concierge for the closest restaurant of repute, so he recommended Chanrey Tree and a tuk-tuk for the short ride to get there.  

My guide Nack had asked whether I would prefer to rest in the morning (as my cold sounded relatively serious with a chesty cough in order) and go to the Jungle Temple, as he called it; later in the day, I insisted on leaving as scheduled and asked for a wake-up call at 5:00a   The hotel organised little croissants and tea/coffee at the entrance lobby, as it was the norm to leave at dawn to watch the sunrise at the temple   We drove as the light separated itself from darkness, as though the sky had parted in two, before dawn and reached the Ta Pomh Temple, left to be ravaged by the jungle of overgrown roots of tree   Starting that early, the morning mist added to the eeriness of the atmosphere, which somewhat felt belittling, walking as a small creature amongst such giant, overgrown nature.

Nature defies all

 

The fact that barely anyone was around so early added further enjoyment to the solitude. I asked Nak to leave me in a cornered area of the walled temple to meditate as the sun began to shine through the mystic surroundings. We walked through the grounds, and a handful of visitors entered as we were leaving. To have been able to spend a good few moments left all to myself was bliss.

I was dropped back at the hotel by 8:45am, ready to head straight into the self-service of a beautiful breakfast set by the pool, enclosed by the hotel room. I had until 15:00 hour to enjoy the sunshine and a swim, with a light salad lunch before the afternoon pick-up for the next tour.

View from my room at Shinta Mani.

I showered and wore the long, loose pants bought in Hoi An in thin cotton with a shawl over my black t-shirt (a simple rule of respect to be dressed appropriately. We drove off to Angkor Thom, the last city of the Khmer Empire; it ran from 800 to 1400 and, at the height of its wealth and power, was thought to have supported a population of one million people. The fortified city, which runs at 4km x 4km, is accessed through one of five gates, standing 20 metres tall and decorated with stone faces and elephant trunks. The most impressive was the Byron, a creative masterpiece of its architect, King Jayavarman VII, one of that era's most forceful and productive kings.

South gate entrance to Angkor Thom

Back entrance from within the walls

108 statues; 54 on each side represent Gods on the right and Demons on the left.

The Byron is set in the middle of the 4kmx4km grounds.

Carvings on the walls represent the activities of the time.

The site was mesmerising with the 216 strikings, smiling enormous faces reminiscent of the king himself. Although I was listening to Nak (my guide) explain the history behind such magnificence, my mind and visual experience were far more enriching than any words said at the time.
We walked for hours in the heat, which had somewhat died down in the early hours of the evening. The clicking of my right finger on the camera was hitting well into the hundreds.

Buddha - May your smile be contagious!

The last part of the visit was the grand Terrace of the Elephants, where public ceremonies of the Khmer Empire were held. Standing there, I could imagine the Khmer kings reviewing vast processions of infantry, chariots, and elephants elegantly braced sadly to go to war; still, it was a grand vision.

Goodness, I am so behind with my blog writing! Yet, I am disciplined in putting my thoughts in the right order. I just got back from an Amazing trip to Seville and simply can't wait to write about it.  
I still have to finish Cambodia next, though, later today. 

My conclusion about going on trips alone compared to those that involve the company of friends is that I choose my friends as the experience becomes so much more meaningful. Yet, I am super happy to have gone so far in the East alone, as it was exactly what I needed to do.

So, I end this blog with a salute to all my wonderful companions who brought so much enlightenment into my life.



   

YOLO - You Only Live Once

An Englishman once told me he asked his wise Kuwaiti friend whose views he respected:
"What is the most important cause of living a good life? The most vital thing."
The wise man simply answered:
"Forgiveness! To learn to forgive."

The act of forgiveness begins from within oneself first and foremost. When I learned to be more forgiving towards my actions and deeds, I also found it in my heart to love myself for who I am and, hence, less judgment towards others and an understanding of the wider world. I am not in control but in charge of where I want my life to lead. From then on, all we can do is our best. Meditation, I repeat repeatedly, has helped me through the ups and downs and how to deal with them for a happier life.
After all, obstacles are only a perception of the mind; they don't exist until we bring them to life.

London has been good to me, and back here, with the start of spring and more sunshine to brighten up the citizens' moods, being surrounded by wonderful friends or chosen family has been... happy!
I had to bid my car and wonderful companion farewell last week. It was not sad; it was just a fact of life one accepts: there is a beginning and end to all; the sooner we take, the more accessible. We had loads of fun together, and I could not believe the tears pouring down my face as I stood in front of the judges in court as they voiced the six-month ban. I simply couldn't refrain.  

I have been hanging out mostly in my neighbourhood and entertaining at home. I have been enchanted by conversations about everyone's journeys and look forward to a brighter future.  
Gérard came over one afternoon to set up the BBQ, as I am new to it. We had not seen each other for about three years. I got him to set the coal ready almost as soon as he walked in after handing him my speciality, Aperol Spritz. He managed to stain my new decking with paraffin, then overcook my overnight marinated chicken fillets! Oh dear, he was not doing too well after all those years. And then, watched me clean up. It could well be another three years if we were to meet again.

A few friends have moved from London, particularly a close friend of many years, Bardo. Guess this is life in the fast lane. I sometimes (very rarely) think of those I have encountered worldwide living in a small ski village, for example, or in a wooden house floating on the China Sea, who barely leave their domain; how do they see life? Do they know what depression is? Are they more content? As hard as their life would seem to us, they are privileged.  

Now, back to my travels ...
Back in Vietnam, the boat trip on the river Thu Bon carried my guide and me to the village of Kim Bong, where we hired a bicycle and rode through the narrow, unpaved streets with only a few other bikers on site. From a visit to a house where rice pancakes were made (not dissimilar to pasta) to the hut, rugs were made by hand, followed by a boat building yard, and not to forget the Camkin carpentry.

Older generation weaving rugs

 Using the shaving of wood to seal boats

Application of mother of pearl on wood

Making rice pancakes for restaurants

90-year-old skilled hands at making boats

Market in Hoi An

Exotic fruit

Every night in Hoi An, I spent time at the tailors and then at different restaurants based on recommendations from the hotel concierge and others.  
I tried the following restaurants and enjoyed the food: Ms Ly, Green Mango, Morning Glory, and Cargo. Yaly was where I had not one, not two, but three flamenco dresses made, planning ahead for my next trip away.

The boats with the eyes

My days in Vietnam ended on Monday, 3 March, and a flight from Danang to Siem Reap, which used to be Cambodia's capital, was a change of scene I had not reasonably expected. It was rather strange as I took the bus to the airport to get on the Vietnamese airline. The words of the two ladies sounded extremely familiar; they were speaking in my mother tongue, so many miles away. So I lifted my head. They definitely had the looks, and yes, my presumption was true. We were all surprised as one of the ladies then put her arm around the other and said:
"We're sisters, and we love to travel together."
I felt a sigh inside, which I kept to myself. I asked whether they would care to join me one evening for dinner in Siem Reap, and they agreed.

We met on the third night of our stay in Cambodia, and there was a good reason for such a thing. I Cannot call it a coincidence because there is more to every encounter. We met in my hotel lobby and proceeded to the AHA restaurant near Pub Street, where the city's main nightlife was. It was enchanted to chat with the sisters who resided in the US, and there were many similarities to which I could relate. At dinner, the older sister, who was more talkative, asked:
"Do you know why we get along so well?"
Then, without awaiting a reply from me simply answered:
"Because there's no jealousy between us."

Cambodia to follow...

In London, what was new was a visit to the cinema in Whiteley's shopping mall with Aisha. They built an ultra-modern movie theatre with comfy armchairs and waiter service throughout the film, which was a new experience and fun. At the same time, we watched The Grand Budapest Hotel, which is about the adventures of the legendary concierge Gustav. It was entertaining.
Spring in the city has meant lots of April showers (not that we need April for showers to pour here), another exciting rendezvous with a dear friend (with lots of benefits), Don Juan, with whom we do not simply meet but fly a magic carpet to other continents; known or unknown to mankind.

I read the following words recently, and they make so much sense.
'Don't judge someone just because they sin differently than you'.

Hoi An Beaches to Tailors

When you learn to love yourself, it's the beginning of your steadfast love affair.
By Oscar soooo Wild.

Now, going back to Vietnam...
I flew from Haiphong to Danang Airport. Did not even realize how well developed a town Danang was, where the Americans first landed at the start of the Vietnam War. It remained popular with the troops throughout the conflict, only one and a half hours away from Hoi An, and until the last day, when it came to viewing in daylight, I did not even know it existed in such grandeur. During the flight, loaded with the heaviest carry-on luggage, a handbag and the massive roll of paintings bought in Hanoi, the youthful Vietnamese beauty who was our air stewardess was most kind in helping me with my extras. She offered me the one before the last seat and left my carry-on luggage next to her feet, seated on the previous row. When she finally sat behind me after serving the light meal, I turned to her, and we chatted the rest of the flight. After all, everyone has a story. 

I recognized my name printed on the A4 paper as I got out of the terminal, and the guide and driver took an hour and a half to get me to the Chic Hotel, which was set amongst a field of rice paddies. There, I found another fan as one of the girls in reception hugged me a couple of times, and for some reason, she was entirely drawn to me! Who am I to question a kind and loving gesture, so I hugged her back. I was told people in Cambodia were warm and sweet, but I had experienced it several times in Vietnam. Hotel hopping in Hoi An became a regular activity in the week spent there as booking so 'last minute', William at Audley Travels had struggled to get me in one place for the seven-night stay. The guide, Mr Ray, seemed a little offbeat and spent most of the hour and a half ride from the airport talking to the driver; he did this in a somewhat mocking manner when he told me: "Oh! What do you think? Everything in town closes at 9:30."
When I asked his opinion on whether the Boutique Hotel was better than the Victoria Hotel, he answered:
"Better? Huh. Victoria is very nice; the boutique is not so good."
He preferred something other than Chic Hotel, which was fascinatingly decorated, with amiable staff and an excellent breakfast. Once I got to the Chic on my first night, I wrote to William back in the UK, at Audley Travels, to have my guide changed. He immediately saw to it, so I had a new man from Hué flown in the next day. Good show!

On the first hour of arrival, around 8:30 pm, I left the luggage, and Mr Ray asked the taxi to give me a lift to town after dropping him off at his restaurant. I walked a little in Hanoi's quiet back streets, wondering where all the tourists were, but soon came across a restaurant I had read about in Lonely Planet called Ms Ly and began with an order of white rose dumplings and wontons with prawn. Walking back in the deserted narrow streets was peaceful and not the least threatening. Or could it be I simply felt no fear?

The roof pool at Chic Hotel

My marble bath at Chic

Hoi An offers beachside services and is famed for its tailors. As soon as I found that factor out, the decision to find a seamstress to make out my flamenco dress became a mission.
I had already taken a photo of a few desired styles while in La Ronda, Spain, on my iPhone, so all there was left to do was have it made—a flamenco dress, or two, or three, as it ended up, made in Hoi An, Vietnam.  
Et pourquoi pas?!
(And why not?!)

On the first night, just before 10 pm, I walked into the only open shop, a tailor. I showed the design on the phone, which was quoted for $300, including the fabric. But when looking around at the dresses they had already made, that would not happen.

On the second day in Hoi An, a new guide and the driver showed up, and they transported me and my luggage to the Boutique Hotel by the South China Sea.  

At the Boutique Hotel, I was shown my spacious, modernly designed room with a slick marble shower room, somewhat unpacked, and proceeded to the beach with Hawaiian Tropic oil in hand. Sunbathing alone leaves no oil on the back, and napping burns the skin. The temperature was a perfect mid-twenties, but the sun shone strongly. Again, the breakfasts were divine, and the next three days were spent on the beach, followed by a swim in the pool as the water was slightly too choppy to go in on my own. After all, I knew no one whatsoever there.

The second night back in town to eat at the Green Mango's recommended restaurant, followed by a visit to another tailor where they quoted $600 for that same flamenco design dress. I decided by then to forget about having any clothes made; it is not as though I need any!

Again, I was one of the last ones walking around the town around 10/10:30 pm, quite a change from the buzzed streets only an hour or two prior. I caught a taxi back to the Boutique Hotel.

On the third day at breakfast, I noticed an older couple (older to me, that is) walk towards the open-air eatery where I sat, with the man gently touching his lady at the back with such affection. They walked closer and took the table in front, and as the lady turned around, she addressed me:

"Oh, hello! We met on the junk at Halong Bay."

I, who must have looked somewhat puzzled while going through the scanning memory chip, tried hard to agree with a nod and a smile. So the lady introduced herself as Diane and her husband, James, from England. It did not take her long to invite me to dinner that evening as their three nights in Hoi An ended the following day, and I gladly agreed. I sure had no other plans that evening or any other.

After another day on the beach and an hour and a half of Vietnamese massage at the hotel spa, I showered, changed, and got ready to meet Diane and James at the hotel lobby by 7 pm. They apologetically asked if I would join them in fitting out their outfits made in town before heading to dinner at the Morning Glory restaurant.  

"No apology needed. I love shopping."  I answered in joy.

They took me to a colonial light yellow building on the grounds where Yaly Couture Tailors was set, somewhat away from the busy back streets. As we walked up the stairs in a hurry into a large first-floor open-plan shop with a selection of fabrics to make any shopaholic's mouth drop open wide, I was delighted with the find. As the husband and wife disappeared into the fitting rooms and came back with highly well-fitted garments, I spared no moment to approach one of the girls on the shop floor, and in no time, my first flamenco dress was on order. Hole!

A deliciously pleasant dinner invite with their prawn mousse 'kebabs' order, including the dress now on order and the exciting company of a retired couple who worked in the BBC, made that night complete.

Mousse Prawn at Morning Glory

Morning Glory Restaurant

The old trading port of Hoi An is colourful in the day, with the colonial colours of the houses and splashes of different shades coming from every corner on every back street. By night, as in the daytime, the lanterns hung on strings above the alleys, as in the shops lit in every shade of vibrant colour. There is a charm all around: good food, the bustling river Thu Bon, the rich temples, the market filled with porcelain, jewellery stalls, fruit, and fish, all making Hoi An an excellent and different destination.

The fishermen's boat

The beach at day in Hoi An

Colourful lanterns for sale

Hoi An, by night

One afternoon, while walking along the beach and collecting sea shells, I saw a young blonde girl get up and walk with a rack sack towards me, so I started the conversation. Her name was Yolanda from the Netherlands, and she was in her mid-twenties, travelling on her own for three months or so in the Far East, having already been all around China. She was saying how, in most parts of this side of the world, being blond was a novelty, and people would keep touching her hair. From what I recall, she mentioned a city she visited in China where she attended an open day where families brought their daughters above a certain age in their late twenties to find them suitors. Her experiences of backpacking all over China were a delight to listen to. She talked of her family, which occupied a good hour of the walk when I decided to return, and we bid farewell and never saw her again.

The boats to ride on river Thu Bon

On Saturday, 1st March, my new guide, Hien, awaited at the hotel in the lobby, with the driver from before, to drive us to My Son (read as Misson), opened to the public in 1999 when Unesco recognized it as a world heritage site.

My Son ruins are Vietnam's most important Cham site. Their civilization dominated the area that is now Central Vietnam for many centuries before being crushed by the Vietnamese. It was once the intellectual and religious centre, with monuments in a verdant valley surrounded by hills.

 

Ticket sales for My Son

Ruins of My Son

 

My Son

An exciting tour overall on a pleasantly hot day; then again, I like the heat.

Hien then had me driven back to town for lunch with a view of the river at Thanh Phoung restaurant, seated on the first floor. Another check out and check back in at Chic Hotel was when I was greeted by the same friendly lady at the reception, and my luggage was taken back to my old room.

I had to ask for a doctor's visit and a prescription for antibiotics later; my guide was back to take me on a short boat ride on the river Thu Bon and a visit to the Camkim Carpentry village on the island, which was only ten minutes away.  

The main bridge in Hoi An

View from restaurant

I think I am passing out. Long nights are gone when I stay up until 4 or 5 am. writing my blog. It is now 2 am, and my bed is calling my name badly.  

Na Night to Y' All.