Tuesday, 27 November 2012

Senegal - Dakar & L'Île de Gorée

Often, I get asked where my favourite travel place has been. Every time, my mind storms through the memories of the first places that come to mind ...  Rio and its incredible landscape, the Prague episode, Sintra and that magical castle, the fun I had in Beirut with the most hospitable nation I had come across, Ibiza. But my answer every time is, 'every place has a character of its own, some places I am not terribly fond of to visit again, but what indeed leaves its mark is the people from a city that make it what it truly is; a meaningful memory. Senegal has undoubtedly left its footprints all over my heart, and here is how it all began.

Now, where do I begin???
A few chapters can be written on my magical journey through Senegal. 

Donna was my travel partner to Dakar. She was the one who persisted and helped organise our whole trip through the wonderful friends she had connected with on her previous visit to the Senegalese capital. We had a connecting flight to catch via Charles de Gaulle in Paris, which had changed so much since Eurostar has been the only transport I have used to this destination since it began in 1996. Goodness, had it changed! So exquisitely modern. Or some may dispute that, as they do.

Charles de Gaulle Paris

Who might have been on our flight from Paris to Dakar but the superb Angelique Kidjo.  
The five-and-a-half-hour flight flew by, watching a couple of movies, one French, of which I wish the name would come to mind; it doesn't. And a film about the invention of the vibrator or dildo!  
We left the plane into the warm air of Dakar, and at even 9:30pm, it managed to caress our skins, and all our muscles tended to loosen up as we took the bus to the hustle and bustle of the terminal and outside the airport. The friendly smile of Hachim and a warm hug to his great buddy Donna and then me were an excellent beginning to our trip. He drove us directly (with our four pieces of luggage) to the house we were helped to rent and shared our stay there with Jane and Russ. They had arrived the previous day and texted us to join them at a rap concert in the new Theatre Hall built by the Chinese, a replica of which exists in China. It carried a label somewhere saying 'Made BY China'! We also spent the following two days attending panels of African leaders being challenged in the questioning ways of the youth and watching some of the great names of African music play live on stage.  
Although it meant waking up early and carrying on till late every night by going out, every waking hour in Senegal was well worth it.  

The few million-dollar monument



Fruit sellers on the street



On our first night, after being handed special passes, we arrived at the concert to join our friends towards the end of the performance. A vast theatre filled with youth and vigour, rapping along with the singer. My minimal knowledge of rap made me watch in amazement, not knowing who was on stage. Oh well, a girl can't say Everything!
Back at the house, I covered myself top to toe to sleep and woke up at dawn, accompanied by Donna, to go and have breakfast at the Terrou-Bi Hotel and find a way out of that rented house, which was not to our liking, to say the least.

Charlene came to our rescue and offered us to share a room at the Radisson Hotel, which we gratefully accepted until Monday at 3:00pm. The open-air seating for breakfast was a joy, with the temperature rising to 31 degrees every day while we had left behind the London weather of cold and grey skies.  
Personally, I found Dakar charming. So many people touched my heart; I cannot say enough good things about this place. Hachim had organised a car and driver called Pape for us, a tall and skinny young man whose giggly smile was infectious. The first two days, he arrived late, and Donna tried to teach him a few conduct facts, but he was headstrong, yet he did try his best. Every time he arrived late, I would say:
"Ah! Pape has finally popped!"

The view of our bedroom at Radisson Hotel - Dakar

At the seminars, they announced the Prime Minister of Senegal, Macky Sall, to take the stand at the start of the weekend, concentrating on the youth of Africa and what significant role they play as they stand for 60% of the population being below 25 years old. President Sall talked of finding ways to give the youth a chance as their potential could be capitalised on. He added:  "An exciting time. Africa is at a turning point."
His speech was brief and productive. Afterwards, followed a panel of a former Nigerian President discussing 'African Youth', challenged by a young girl of 18 years of age as she mentioned:
"The fact that the elder is always right must be changed."
That is a fair point. But I do know our children, as did we; they are always right and probably are. We may have well learned from experiences through life, but with all the knowledge at the disposal of the youth, their minds are brimming with new ideas more so than any generation has ever had before. Finally, the time has come to recognise that children grow faster in mind, thought and behaviour than ever.  
'In three years, 41% of the world's youth will be African and yet almost half the world's out-of-school children live in Sub-Saharan Africa'.  
The Ex-President did not seem terribly comfortable at first but then added:
"Your generation has more facilities and fewer opportunities, while it was the reverse during my generation, having more opportunities and fewer facilities."
He also said:  "Anybody who believes he can do, he can DO. You've the attitude, and you'll get there. Something achievable and not as far-fetched as becoming Obama."
The girl confidently noted: "It's not the success stories lacking but their exposure."
Questions were being raised amongst the crowd sitting in the theatre, and microphones were handed to women and men of different ages to speak their minds and ask questions.

Most inspiring to see such bright minds, fearless of any stage fright, these young brilliant people standing up and giving outstanding speeches and questioning their leaders, which reminded me of the ski slopes, where the two to three-year-old learners zoom away past you with no attitude but just the will to do what they are best at.

These messages caught my mind:
'To restless young people, don't stop. Carry on being restless.'
'Linking up and connecting Africa. Think of Africa not as 54 but as One nation.'
I wish we do that with the World as One and have a passport that reads: 'Global Citizen'.
Also coming from the young: 'Growth in having a voice, access to social enterprise, economic and spiritual awareness.'
Truly dazzling.

In another panel of six speakers, one person whose views were passionate and his manner of discussion captured the bystanders was called Jay Naidoo. His talk went on:
"We need to get in touch with the people in the street. We need to work hard. If you want change, then we've got to face the fire. Leadership is to believe in a dream, go there and fight for it or 30 years down the line, we will still be talking the same talk and walking the same walk."

And that is in life, in general.

I sat there and listened and took pages and notes; in the two days of talks and concerts of some of the best Africa had to offer, I felt humbly grateful for landing in such an inspirational forum of wonderful people. Also, my lousy memory for names is simply a hopeless case, so there is no need for too much pressure; just enjoy the moments. But I do recall Ismael Lo, Baaba Maal and a finale by the duo of Angelique Kidjo, united by Youssou N'Dour's names.

Ismael Lo

Baaba Maal

Angelique Kidjo & Youssou N'Dour

Archbishop Desmond Tutu gave an encouraging speech in acceptance of his prize for his lifelong commitment to speaking truth to power, handed to him by the brilliant singer and activist Angelique Kidjo, said:
"Don't be affected by the cynicism of 'oldies' like us", he went on. "Go ahead and dream of a different kind of world."
His humour and infectious laughter made his speech even more mesmerising; he also raised:
"Listening to women and all they've to say... They're real toughies. You guys are in trouble!"
And he continued: "We need a revolution led by women. We've been buttering them up. It's time for the women now to say... 'We've let you men get along, but now get out of the way and let us do our job'. All of us know what our mothers have done for us. As Hitler's mother declined to carry him next to her bosom, he grew up with immense insecurity. The hand that rocks the cradle rules the world."
And there was more from Desmond Tutu: 
"Get to believe you're Special. VSP, you're extraordinary, and we can get this continent humming. Don't repeat our mistakes, you young. There's only one way of eating an elephant, a piece at a time. Wake up, Shake up and Move. The longest journey begins with a step."
WOW.  

The Adorable Archbishop Desmond Tutu

The Founder of this marvellously unique organisation finished his studies as a PhD in the UK; of African origin, he talked openly about his success story in business and his passion for helping Africa get the attention it deserves. He has an outstanding team of devotees who help him run this invigorating program. 
I was genuinely impressed.

On the last day of the massive organisation that had been taking place in Dakar, on Sunday, canapés and drinks were being served in the vast hall of the theatre when Aliou approached Donna to say hi, and while being introduced to me, another gentleman was addressed to us by him called; Ibou. Everything went so fast that I recall Ibou asking us how long we were staying in Senegal, and we mentioned our departure a week later on a Sunday evening. He then invited us to his house in St Louis on the Friday. 
I cheekily, without knowing Ibou, asked:
"Seriously? You mean what you're saying?"
He seemed a little taken aback at first but charmingly replied:
"Yes. I absolutely mean it."


Now, to tell you more about Senegal... Sharing the elegant hotel room with Donna, as we did in Manchester, was fun and easy. She was also busy organising our one-hour trip to Saly, situated by the sea, on a Monday evening, at her friend's villa she had offered us to stay at. It was great lounging by the Radisson pool where Ernest was also taking residence and being great company while Donna got busy with her hectic back-and-forth schedule to Saly. We had lunch by the pool; during the evenings, everyone, including Lola and Francine (from my last Paris connection), was present to add flavour to the scene and Lola's entourage of the who's who of connected people. With Ernest and many lovely people, we tried the Little Buddha bar, and Donna and I left late to get only a few hours of sleep.
With Lola, accompanied by Jane and Russ and again a large table of people which kept adding throughout the night, booked at the French Institute, we passed another late night of meeting of the minds. On all occasions during my visit, every time I turned my head to every possible side, there was a pull of energy, another fantastic character to chat with.
On our last night, Monday evening, Lagoon 1 was the designated restaurant to dine with Jane and Russ, accompanied by Kalu and the lovely Hachim, who had brought his wife along.

Donna and I took time on Monday to visit L'Ile de Gorée, an island twenty minutes away by ferry. It was a hot day, but not one to get sweaty; we landed at Gorée, being somewhat hassled by the occupants of the island to sell us their guidance to La Maison des Esclaves, where the house of slaves was used for processing the slaves on the way to the Americas. As we set foot on the island, we were informed that the house was closed till 2:30pm for lunch, and we only had one hour till 2:00pm to catch the ferry back and move out of our hotel room by 3:00pm. We finally found a charming young man who gently walked beside us and talked us through parts of the colonially colourful row of houses, the artists' works displayed along dusty roads going up a hill towards a Canon, placed on top of a mountain. 



A Colonial House

The backstreets of the island

The church in the centre of the island

Artists display their work throughout


The Guns of Navaron was filmed here.


















From this Senegalese capital, Dakar, here are a few captions on camera, 
as a fisherman catches his hunt at sea. 

So far, from our arrival to Dakar on a Friday evening, we had stepped into our villa one night, the next two were at the Radisson and the Monday, which was meant to be our departure to Saly, we ended up sleeping at the early hours of the morning (again) at the Terrou-bi Hotel. How many times did we open and close those four suitcases, and how many different mattresses have we tested so far? And so, our adventures to Saly and beyond continued ...


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