Palazzo Grassi - Venice

Day 2

Upon Jonathan's advice, the taxi boat from San Marco, dropped us near Palazzo Grassi; three floors of contemporary art, displayed mainly in immense dimensions to accommodate the grand space of the building.  It was not the magenta, bright Balloon Dog by Jeff Koons that first captured our attention, but the 'Contamination' patchwork sprawl from Joana Vasconcelos, of brightly coloured forms that invaded the entrance of this magnificent Palazzo.  

No photography was allowed, and we took time to view every global work of art by various artists.  
There was a short trailer shown in a dark room by Bernard Henry Levy of a fabricated film starring Sharon Stone of The American Dream; where she ran for presidency.

On a higher floor, Farhad Moshiri, from Iran's colourful exhibit on a white wall read:
'Life is Beautiful', composed from colourful knife handles of different textures, which could only be distinguished by a closer look. Indeed, La Dolce Vita was made beautiful from the acquisition of many knife wounds in the past. I can relate to that.

From Yang Jiechang, born in Southern China, were two walls covered in paintings of his works titled, 'Stranger than Paradise', in which Yang humorously illustrated a paradisal vision of animals and men frolicking (and I mean sexually mucking about) joyfully in nature.  
What's the world coming to?  

Alighiero Boetti's statue of a man holding a lead pipe over his head where steam is coming out is named accordingly 'Mi fuma il cervello'. Steam is comin' out of my brain! Boy, do I feel that way at times.

Last but not least, we came across the colossal, finely detailed oil paintings by the Zambian artist; Jonathan Wateridge. Scenes from the production of a fictional American film centred on an unseen catastrophic event. Awesome!

We left the Palazzo Grassi in awe, to walk over the bridge running across the Grand Canal, passed through numerous alleys, canals and astounding architectural delights, and crossed smaller bridges to reach Punta della Dogana museum, 'In Praise of Doubt' with a motto that read; "The world belongs to you".  

It was incredible to see such a contemporary interior of concrete walls, decorated by contemporary art, housing such Roman-style architecture on the white exterior of the building, situated on the far left side of the photo below.

Again, no photos allowed, I noticed the life-size horse hanging by the neck from a wall above.  
Up the stairs, there was an exhibit of a large size room created by Roni Horn of New York; 'Well and Truly', displaying a dimly lit living room of an old era, possibly revisited in the future.

After enough art consumption for one day, we rerouted back for a few hours of retail therapy. After all, we were in Italy!

On the way back to the hotel, always on foot as the roads are only made for walking, we stumbled across a small workshop/art gallery in a back street and entered to find Gigi Bon; lawyer, turned artist at work, behind her chaotic desk. Her main subject of sculpture was rhinos.

 When I asked why she was so dedicated to the rhino, she answered:
"I feel myself a rhino. Being Venetian, we're so few that we're close to extinction."

That evening's late dinner was at the nearby Do Forni restaurant, resembling an ancient Venetian Tavern with traditional cuisine. My body was craving meat after all the seafood we had consumed, so the choice of the Beef Stroganoff turned out to be an excellent idea. The dish was made on a frying pan next to our table, to perfection. I vividly imagine the succulent taste of the tender beef, infused with a refined creamy sauce, accompanied by roast potatoes. Gastronomy at its best. Yummy.

Enriched with architecture, art and culinary excellence, we rushed back to our hotel room, for a night of tossing and turning due to a full stomach!

The Splendour of Venice

Thinking of Venice, the scene of San Marco square crosses my mind from the movie 'Death in Venice', made in 1971, starring Dirk Bogarde and the beautiful boy played by Bjorn Andreson.

Although a sad story of an older man finding beauty in Venice, augmented by the alluring looks of the young, blonde boy he meets on his visit, the magnificence of the sites of this city was a joy to behold and made me dream of one day, visiting this city.

And there I was with Andrea, approaching the scene, from the front seat of a taxi boat from the airport. We were laid off at San Marco Square and made our way through the crowded, narrow cobbled streets on foot to the Hotel Splendida, by a canal. Thank goodness, it was a mere 15kg of luggage we each had, to be rolled passing by the unbelievable volume of tourists around.

Immediately after checking in, upon the disposal of suitcases, we checked out for a well-recommended glass of Spritz; a mix of prosecco, Campari, and S.Pellegrino with olives and delicious antipasti at Bancogiro's cafe, gazing at the sun going down on camera-equipped tourists passing by in the canal opposite.

The glory of Venice was beginning to sink under our skin. With all the sites to explore, we continued walking and further discovering the splendour of its architecture. Keeping up with the fast pace of my friend, was quite a challenge but it sure kept me fit! More bridges with steps; up and down followed by the turns into the narrow streets, stopovers at some boutiques and taking in the elegance of colourful buildings in photo, brought us back for a quick make-over in our hotel room, only to descend once again for a further map from the concierge to direct us towards dinner at the family-run Al Covo restaurant. Ooooff! I am out of breath writing about it.

At Al Covo, by the recommendation of the owner, we ordered fresh anchovies for starters and for someone who has never liked the taste, it was one of the most heavenly tastes of seafood I have ever encountered.

After dinner,  we came across the large posters of Mario Testino's 'Todo o Nada'; 'All or Nothing' photography exhibition, which sadly stated Rome and not Venice!
  

We strolled around the almost empty square after midnight, with admiration of the elegantly lit buildings.

'Di Che Pasta sei Fatto?' Said the poster... 'Of what pasta are you?'
And on that note, our first day in Venice came to a halt.

Home Sweet Home... Gallery hopping in London

As exhilarated as I was from my wonderful journey to Copenhagen, the excitement of the days to follow kept me on my toes.

Last Tuesday, a visit to Maygol for another invigorating session of her five-element acupuncture to keep me prepared for further connection into the universe in days to come.
The afternoon was spent in the company of Kristine, visiting works of art by various artists in the Mayfair area, on Cork Street. We viewed Martin Yeoman's paintings at Petleys, continuing on to other chic gallery openings of Russian artists to Scandinavians in this trendy location. We ended the evening with dinner at the bar of Le Caprice; a restaurant I frequently visited with my Ex many a decade ago. We attempted a visit, unsuccessfully, to the Bungalow 8 club and ended up at the bar of St Martin's Lane Hotel, accompanied by the enjoyable new company of Georgina, Katia and Fabio.

On Wednesday afternoon, Arabela invited me to the first comprehensive exhibition of modern and contemporary Greek art to be staged in the UK, yet another art fair, in Albemarle Street.
Arabela introduced me to the charming European gallery owner who commented on his admiration of a woman's husky voice with a certain accent and boy do I take compliments with a flirtatious smile!
Our tour of works displayed by several prominent artists continued. We came to a standstill at the Callas performance installations of flashing lights through a stretch of plastic bottle holders, and blue and yellow boxes, displayed to create a dance floor with embroidered wall hangings allocated across the high walls surrounding this particular division. The words 'Kiss, Kill, Piss' and 'In Lust We Trust' stand out, woven into the pieces. We were taken aback at the gallery owner's remark, en passant, through the crowded room.
"Are you ready to dance, Haldita?" He asked as though he knew me.
Quite honestly, I was too stunned to answer while Arabela rushed to add:
"Oh! She doesn't need encouragement. You don't know who you are saying this to!" And whisked me out of the gallery by the arm, in laughter.
"Com' on Haldita," Arabela announced. "We're leaving."

I had to drive to the airport by 21:30 that evening, awaiting the arrival of my travel buddy; Andrea. Our paths had first crossed at a welcome party Wayne, our host, had organised for the arrival of Hala and me to the superb city of New York. Andrea and I had travelled to Arizona and the Toronto Film Festival on previous trips, years before. She is now joining me in London, once again for some jet-setting around.

On her first day, we visited the Jean Paul Gaultier boutique en route to a bite at Itsu.
Afternoon cocktail at Ernest's was followed by dinner at the Mayfair Hakkasan and ended at Annabel's club, where I bumped into Sabet and his sister, sitting at a table with another couple, whom I had previously encountered briefly. He stood up with his enchanting smile, offering us seats to accompany them. It turned out another special evening of music, laughter and dancing before we headed our separate ways.

Friday was a visit to another magnificent gallery close to Kings Cross, run by the delightful Jonathan, who presented us, the surreal Vanitas collection of 'The Transcience of Earthly Pleasures'. He mentioned the visit to the stupendous paintings of Jonathan Wateridge being displayed at the Palazzo Grassi as a must see at our forthcoming trip to Venice. Can't wait.
Our mutual passion for the arts, accompanied by the rain, drove us into the National Portrait Gallery that afternoon, where the photography of the Russian-born, Armenian heritage Ida Kar Archive was on display.
Black and white photos in an exhibition of over seventy of Kar's portraits highlight the significant role played by this woman photographer at the heart of the creative avant-garde era.

In the evening, I organised a dinner party at home as a welcoming gathering of friends for the arrival of Andrea. My 3-D Gaultier number; a long dress printed with images of the solar system and galaxies was a big hit. Every guest commented even before I presented them with the provided 3-D glasses (disappointing to say, similar to the ones handed out in comic books), on how they loved my dress.
"Darling," I would say every time. "I'm 3-D'ed'. Must move on with the times you know!"
Continuing, upon handing my friends the paper glasses: "Wanna check me out?"
The party was fun and my aubergine soufflé (the only thing I partially cook), went down very well with my enchanting guests.

Saturday was a visit to the Portobello market, the purchase of a couple of silverware dishes by Andrea, followed by the theatre; The Pygmalion.
It was purely the enjoyment of watching Diana Rigg and Rupert Everett's acting that kept us on our seats through the My Fair Lady play. My favourite part of the film at the Royal Ascot scene, where Eliza standing at the races shouts out to the runner-up horse:
"C'mon Dover. Move your bloomin' arse!" View of the astounded bystanders is cut out, plus the ball, where she enters to delight the royal interpreter with her posh British accent. So I left the play, slightly disappointed.
Great performances by the two leading actors, not so impressed by Eliza's role... And a little too passé.

Sunday morning... An early flight to Venice was awaiting. A first!
Soooo exciting.

The Copenhagen Canal Tour

Still back in Copenhagen... On Saturday, Kristian prepared a wholesome breakfast whilst I got ready for another day of exploring the city. I followed the aroma of the freshly made coffee down the stairs along with the ring of the bell. We sat in the garden, under the sizzling sun and once again it was not just the heat that made us flee. Breakfast was left untouched ...

At 4 p.m., we boarded the Netto boat for a Copenhagen Canal tour, gently floating on the widely spread water, with a warm breeze flowing in between the exchange of our smiles. We saw the magnificent Opera House, donated to the Danish state by the Moller Foundation, followed by the Black Diamond Library, and many other stunning buildings. 

Facing the grand building, the fountain rose directly opposite the Operaen.

The impressive Black Diamond Library was glowing with the reflection of the shimmering water of the canal.

While I ducked to let the boat drift under the very low bridges, we would come back into the open air of yet, another breathtaking site of rows of coloured buildings and people scattered along the bank in groups, smiling and enjoying the sunshine.

When we got back on land, Kristian was keen to visit a large white tent set in a square, an exhibit about the harm caused by mood stabilizers. There were videos of the CCHR organisation, documenting thousands of individual cases to demonstrate how often psychiatric practices create insanity and cause violence from the brutal effects of prescribed drugs. It was disturbing to see, how tormented minds could be driven to take refuge in a recommendation from someone whom they have trusted, to be taken advantage of, in such a brutal manner.

Overall, my weekend in the marvellous city of Copenhagen was amazing, accompanied by the utmost charm of a Danish stranger. I left on a plane back to London, with a big smile.

I loved cOPENhagen.

Copenhagen in the sun

I picked up the Independent newspaper before boarding the aeroplane on my flight to Copenhagen. It is not usual for me to be interested in a headline but this one read:
'Legalise cannabis and ecstasy now'! Wow. Finally, words of wisdom come from a panel of world leaders calling for an end to the 50-year war on drugs. A good percentage of them use it anyway, no doubt.
'Users of narcotics should be offered education and treatment, rather than being incarcerated'.
Hear hear!  As they would say in the House of Commons.

The best way to see a city is to be shown around by a citizen.
Was it luck? Or trusting the better judgement that led me to follow my intuition and turn up at a foreign airport, with unanswered questions as to whom my tour guide was to be?
I had decided to keep cool no matter what the turnout. Coming out of the arrivals at the airport in Copenhagen I looked around at the unfamiliar faces standing by the rails, awaiting the passengers. With the picture I had in mind of Kristian's profile photo, he was not in sight. So, I walked straight to a panel where hotel information was listed. However, he called me and I could see this familiar face, standing tall above the crowd by the welcoming stands.

The day... In fact, the next three days were saved!
Kristian came to my rescue. We went straight to his spotless house, to freshen up before heading out to the tour of the city.
In the back of my mind, I could hear my friends' words of worry: "Are you mad?" And by the smile on my face they would answer themselves: "Yes, we know you are!"
Were they now to see this handsome 'fella' with his impeccable, friendly manners, who was to be my escort and companion on the three-day visit? The cheeky grin never left my face throughout the journey.

On our first bright, sunny day, Kristian took me to an area of the city where two-storey, red brick buildings were standing in a walled compound. My host explained how the previous meat market area facing us had now been turned into an event location for music and art. What amazed me was the emptiness of the streets (that is, compared to London), despite a younger crowd of people sitting in the sun, on the two long rows of steps, with the sound of house music coming from the background. We settled outside at a nearby cafe for a bite to eat and a beer of course.

After lunch, the walk continued to a more bustling area where more and more people were present.

Passing by the statue of the figurines above, my charming tour guide explained:
"Now, these men play their horns every time a virgin passes by the square," he then added with a smile: "And that's why they have never been heard before!"
Frankly, I did not think the question of a girl's virginity was something of importance in the open-minded Scandinavian world and I guess, this is their way of showing it doesn't... With humour.

There were statues of baby elephants scattered all over the city of Copenhagen, just as we had them here all over London last year. Our favourite, we agreed, was the one below. If you look closely, there are small drawings of faces drawn in black over the whole surface of the animal.

The tour of the city continued on foot towards the main harbour of rows of restaurants alongside the river, where a variety of live music was being played. Not only was every seat taken in the eateries, but people were sitting all along the river bank, drinking, picnicking and enjoying the glorious day.

After a long afternoon, Kristian took me to the infamous compound of Tivoli. We had to purchase tickets to enter this vast area of green land, filled with 'more' restaurants, bars and a vast section; the fun fair, where cries of the thrill from the rides could be heard, plus roller coasters and aeroplanes seen flying in the background.

The sun was setting and the feel of a chill went through my bones, due to the tiredness of travel and the action-packed afternoon of my visit to this wonderful city. We could hear a famous Danish band playing live, to the crowd gathering all around, but could not see a thing.

We dined at Nimb, in the vicinity and decided to head back home, shortly after. Taking the train and underground was a pleasure in Copenhagen. The double-decker train is my favourite.

Seems there is more to tell...

cOPENhagen... The city of 'The Little Mermaid'

Now, how did I end up going to Copenhagen?

It has been a designated spot on my list of places to visit amongst... Well, many others, for some time.
I happen to have met someone on Facebook by leaving remarks on a friend's wall and connecting by chance to Kristian from Denmark. It had been just under a year since we were in contact and seemed to get along fine, chatting at times.
When I wrote to him about wishing to visit his city; Copenhagen, he had invited me to go over for a visit as his guest. It was a thoughtful gesture which had been in the back of my mind since, however, winter was too cold and with the spring's sudden heat in most parts of Europe this year, I made a suggestion to my newfound friend. He responded spontaneously and I took up his offer of visiting; a decision made two weeks prior. Just like that.

It seemed another one of my mad moments of decision-making when I went online and booked a ticket to the city of 'The Little Mermaid'. I heard some mixed views from various friends but my lovely niece had been there for work recently and certainly raved about the city of Copenhagen.
You can imagine the concern of many friends when they found out I barely knew the guy and was ready to go meet him at the airport.

Clara, Heidi, Lola and a few others had asked for some details about Kristian in case he turned out to be... God knows what they thought! haha... But I did reassure my friends that from many a past experience, I trusted my intuition and he behaved more normally than any man I had met online previously.  There are certain acts of conduct that sadly, not many seem to be aware of and Kristian never failed to please in his response. Still, it is wonderful to know you have friends who deeply care about your well-being.

I am happy to say that I returned from my trip, with fond memories of the city of cOPENhagen.
As to why I write it this way... I like to keep in tune with what goes on in the world and it came to my attention, for this is the new wave. City names have been designed to be interpreted by users; accentuating the positives. As in cOPENhagen... 'open' for you.
I am'sterdam'
Let's boGOta
Don't stop me coz I'm HAVANA a good time
No(r)way
Stay Hung(a)ry
Hey, Czech this out!
Stop Russi(a)n about

Cool, huh?
I left early Friday morning after only two hours' sleep... Was writing my blog and had an early flight to catch. And got back this afternoon; Sunday.

My host turned out to be an inspiration; the tall, dark, handsome Kristian, helped me believe in my path in life and realise that I am not mad but simply choose to live my life freely; free of judgement, just as he has. He laid breakfast on his peaceful patio with what I called a 'lace' tree filled with white, delicate grape-like flowers and green leaves, opposite the chairs where we sat, under the warm rays of sunshine to take our freshly brewed coffee.

I was stunned this morning, at actually remembering having had three bizarre dreams the previous night so Kristian asked:
"What kind of bizarre do you mean? Frightening? Or strange?"
"Not scary at all," I answered, "Just peculiar."
"I've a friend who interprets dreams," He said, "She says some dreams are an indication as to what may happen in our lives and others are an interpretation of the way we would wish it to be."
He went on, "It could be a reminder of an action which needs one's attention to a certain person at the time."
"Oh! My God," I responded, "This makes so much sense as my dreams were of connections to my brother Soltan and sadly, we seem to have drifted apart for some reason."

The first thing I wanted to do upon arrival home, was to write a loving email to my dear brother and tell him how much I love him and how impatiently await his visit over here.
Another one of Kristian's thoughtful remarks was: "My parents always told me... If you don't have something good to say about someone, then, say nothing." Love that.

A wholesome week-end in the company of a new friend who helped me understand many aspects of my life at present. The simplicity of life and the essential 'Importance of Happiness' have faded in thought through giving too much time to accumulate materialistic issues in the mind, which eventually causes insecurities and dis-ease. While happiness can easily be achieved through a very trivial effort in finding joy and happiness in the simple things that truly make us smile. In that way only, could we glow with Health.

Free your mind, free your spirit.
Fly high above the clouds of doubt
Leave way for the freshness
Of an air of happiness to flow.

On the way home from Heathrow, in the cab, I contacted my buddies Dylan and Troy, joined by Dori to meet up for dinner at PJ's restaurant. The forces of positivity brought us together this evening.
Dylan took a second glance upon seeing me and said: "Are you tanned Haldita? Where were you exactly?"
"Am I really?" I queried. "I was in Copenhagen under the sun the whole of the three days! From having breakfast under the sun, to going on boat tours and walking through the city."
"Well,"  Said my friend, "You look well for it."
Dori added: "Yes, you look well and rested."
"I didn't go clubbing and actually ate well, slept well and walked a lot, sight-seeing," I added.  "And had great company."
"You're changing girl," Was Troy's remark.
"You kind of look in love," Said Dori.
"Yeah right!" Dylan interrupted. "I've heard that one before; momentarily!"
We all laughed but I had to continue in my defence: "What? Fuck love... All I need is a pair of shoes! As my T-shirt says. Well, I didn't buy one pair of shoes. It doesn't have to be falling 'in love'. Don't quite think I can do that but this is a mutual understanding of true friendship and enjoyment of each other's company. It's a mature way of looking at different kinds of friendship."

The moral of it all is... Begin to believe in yourself and go after your heart's desire without fear, for there is no guarantee of what the next second could behold. Make your dreams come to reality... And Dream On.

The Vikings may have been harsh throughout history, but they sure have learned their lesson in Denmark; Copenhagen under the sun, was filled with smiles of warmth and friendliness.

To follow... cOPENhagen in pictures.

Inspiration... Hard to come by at times

Inspiration comes from self-motivation of the mind. Gosh! What if you are not in the right mindset? It is not an easy task to transfer thoughts into action and make dreams come into reality. The question arises... 'So, what choices do I have?'
Then, I read this on a Facebook page.
'Everything will be okay in the end.
If it's not okay, it's not the end.'

Somehow... This brings back memories of my madness!
It was through online dating and after several emails to and fro, Ed arranged to meet up at the (then new) Lucio Italian restaurant for lunch on a sunny, yet chilly Saturday afternoon. I walked in, with a slight delay, to be shown to the table at which my host was awaiting my arrival.
Now, Ed was tall and very distinguished looking in his tasteful manner of dressing for the occasion. He rose from his seat, with a pleasing smile, to greet me with two friendly kisses on the cheeks and welcomed me at the round table.

After another flirtatious apology on my part for the slight delay (I've made this a lifetime habit!  Have become so good at it), we seemed to have hit it off right from the start. I must admit, his very upper-class British accent was next to none and this mixed with his inexplicable sense of humour, kept me dazzled as to whether he was putting on an act or he actually spoke in that manner. Basically, he made me laugh and I like that most in a man. I could tell the man had a certain aristocratic background but this was of no relevance to me. Lunch continued on for hours and he made no claim as to his history. He certainly had a good taste in wine.

Lunch over, we came back to my place to listen to a selection of chill house music, more talk and laughter. Ed then suggested we move on to his pad nearby and the afternoon went into the night with a take-away service from the local Chinese. We ate, drank, talked and danced in his living room. The invitation to my good friend Luke's engagement party which had begun in the afternoon on that Saturday went completely passed me. It was so good meeting someone I felt so totally at ease with and we made love as two souls melting into one.
It was only about 5.30 a.m. that I realised my friend's engagement party must hopefully, still be going on. I fled out of Ed's apartment, without the faintest inkling of sleep, to join what was left of the party running from the afternoon before; the four guests and the engaged couple were scattered around the vast space in the house and garden. The excitement of the previous hours had pumped out a new outburst of energy in me. At my arrival, Luke and his almost angelic-looking lady stood up to welcome me, his brother began playing music, a couple of others joined and we danced on for another couple of hours before I wished them joy and left.

Ed and I went on to meet, on and off for some time to come. We discussed the good times and the difficult times of our lives, without any indication of attachment. Although he did mention once:
"Now... Haldita," in that very British accent of his, "I know you're not very fond of the idea of a boyfriend, girlfriend and like your freedom. But I like entering occasions, with a lady on my arm,"  he posed for a second, clearing his throat, "Would you consider being that lady?"
"Mmmm..." I was baffled at the suggestion.
"Oh! You don't have to answer right away," he said, "Think about it."
The expression on my face must have given him a sense of insecurity as he changed the subject.
"You know I've tried and tested all the kinds of women you can imagine," he went on, "the English rose who didn't quite smell like one to the heiress and the lady who took me to a fetish club. In the long run, none of them fitted my criteria of the woman I want to be with."
"Well, I certainly understand where you're coming from Ed," I said sympathetically.

Guess, this comment did not quite express my emotions of how I truly felt about 'being his girlfriend'. And the subject was not raised again.

Another time, Ed called on an early afternoon, a sunny, winter's day and asked if I was busy. As it happened, I was free. So, he drove to pick me up in his large automobile, for lunch in an empty restaurant close by. Ed arrived rather too jolly to be behind the wheel... In that state! As we drove around to look for parking, he played the bumper-to-bumper car in the back streets and managed to hit the cars parked on each side of the narrow street. I was laughing in total disbelief as he went on happily talking to me.
I had to say something: "Ed, do you realise we just hit a few cars?"
"Ah! Here's a space." He said as he tried and I mean 'tried' to park.
My words had gone straight passed him. We settled in the empty restaurant as it was early afternoon and went on jokingly enjoying the home-cooked Lebanese food and dessert till early evening, while Ed managed to entertain me and the lady owner serving the food with his impeccable sense of humour. Thank goodness, he decided to leave the car behind after the meal.

Looking back... If only I had felt his words were meant from the heart, I might have agreed to be 'his girlfriend', for a short while at least. However, it was the words 'a lady in his arm' which did not quite do it for me. We went on to meet every so often and talk about absolutely everything that went on around us. It was as though our friendship was a close bond but... Guess not. As much as I miss his company at times, it was he, who decided to end it all one day, by a text. There was no use trying to persuade him otherwise. His mind was set and I would not dream of being in anyone's life, if for one second I felt 'not wanted', for whatever reason.

Let bygones be bygones,
And new beginnings flow in.
Bring on the great vibes,
Let the joy of living take you to paths,
You never dared go before.
As long as there is love in my heart
Take me to new heights
And let me spread that heart-pounding feeling of love,
Onto those who can appreciate it.
If this is fantasy?
I want to make it... Reality.

And on that note... I have an early flight to catch... cOPENhagen is awaiting me. Mmm...